Heart & Sole Slippers| Women size | Free Crochet Pattern | Written Instructions and Graph| My Hobby is Crochet

These pretty and cozy heart slippers are crocheted using post stitches, that create a thick and warm knit-look texture.
They are quick and easy to work up; you can crochet them up in a couple of hours. This pattern could become your ‘go-to’ slipper pattern!

---

*Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you decide to purchase through these links. Thank you!

---

The Heart & Sole Slippers is my second Valentine's Day inspired pattern using a heart graph.
The first one was "A Hat with Love", a cute hat with hearts going around.

Slippers Construction: These crochet slippers are worked from the toe up.

SIZE: The slippers have a lot of stretch in length! Without stretching the slippers measure 24.5 cm (9.5 inches) in length; slipper circumference around the foot 23 cm (9 inches)

Please check your gauge and also try the slippers on while working.

• For larger sizes work more rounds and rows.
• For wider and longer slippers, you could try using a thicker yarn and larger hook size.

Small Child Size of the slippers available HERE!

SUPPLIES:

- 2 skeins of DK (light worsted)/ 8 ply yarn in Red (color A) and small amount of White (color B).
I have used Red Heart Lisa yarn (available at LoveCrafts in Europe), but you can replace it with other yarn having the same weight, for example Schachenmayr Bravo, or PAINTBOX YARNS Simply DK that are available in the US also.

- 4.5 mm crochet hook

- 2 stitch markers
- tapestry needle to sew in the ends

- scissors.

GAUGE: 16 fpdc x 15 rounds = 10cm x 10cm (unstretched) = 4 inches x 4 inches

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

hdc: half double crochet

dc: double crochet

fpdc: front post double crochet

bpdc: back post double crochet

st: stitch

yo: yarn over

slst: slip stitch

sk: skip
RS: right side
WS: wrong side

SPECIAL STITCHES:

standing hdc: See this Tutorial on Moogly blog!

bpdc2tog inv= invisible decrease back post double crochet= yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the next 2 sts (at the same time) on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.

How to change colors

Work the last st before changing colors till half, having 2 loops on hook, pick new color yarn and end the stitch, pulling the new color yarn through the 2 loops on hook.

Do not not cut yarns when changing colors, you can choose to work around the yarn not in use, or you can carry the unworked yarns across the back. Keep the tension of the strands not in use a little loose, to maintain elasticity.

To avoid long floats of yarn, you need to catch the yarn not in use.

---

Heart & Sole Slippers

~ Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queues and Favorites! ~

~ Pin it here! ~

UPDATE Febr. 2021: VIDEO TUTORIAL available here!

INSTRUCTIONS

Work rounds 1- 5 the same for both left and right slippers!

Start with a magic ring.

Round 1: ch1, work 11 hdc into ring, join with sl st to top of first hdc. (11 sts)

Round 2: ch2, (1 dc into top of next st, 1fpdc around the same st as the dc just made), repeat around, join with sl st to top of first st. (22 sts)

Round 3: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 4 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 8 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (26 sts)

Round 4: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 5 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 10 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 5 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (30 sts)

Round 5: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 6 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 12 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 6 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Begin of Heart Pattern

Here you will work the left and right slipper a bit different!

(See also the HEART GRAPH below!)

Because the heart has an uneven number of stitches and the slippers have an even number of sts in a round, the heart is not quite centered. One st is off.
(You have 1st more in main color on one side as on the other side of the heart.)
To make the slippers looking symmetrical when worn you will work the right slipper with the changes as seen below.

NOTE: Work rounds 6 - 13 as written in the pattern for the Left Foot with changes in parentheses for the Right Foot.

Round 6: ch2, with A 1fpdc in each of next 16 (17)sts, changing to B at last st, with B 1fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 17 (16) sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 7: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 15 (16) sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 16 (15)sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 8: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 14 (15)sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 5 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 15(14)sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 9: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 13 (14)sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 7 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 14 (13)sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Rounds 10-11: With A ch2, work 1 fpdc around each of next 12 (13)sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 9 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1 fpdc around each of next 13 (12) sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 12: With A work 1 fpdc around each of next 12 (13)sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc till half, change to B and finish the st with B; continues with B, work 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 13 (12) sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 13: With A ch2, work 1 fpdc around each of next 13 (14) sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts, change to B at last st, with B 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 14 (13) sts, sl st to top of first fpdc. Cut yarn B.

Rounds 14: With A work 34 fpdc around, sl st to top of first fpdc.

THE GRAPH(S)

How to Read the Graph(s)

The 2 graphs are showing rounds 5- 14 in the written pattern.
Actually the 2 graphs are the same, the only thing that is different it's how you will read them:

• The top graph is for the Left Foot. You will read the graph (beginning at the arrow) from bottom to top, from right to left.
• The Bottom graph is for the Right Foot. You will read the graph (beginning at the arrow) from bottom to top from left to right

You can DOWNLOAD THE GRAPH to your PC by right mouse click, option "Save Image", then you can PRINT OUT!

Rounds 15-18: Repeat as round 14.
Note: It will be much easier to count the rounds/ rows on the wrong side. Count the ridges on the wrong side and write down to make the same for the second slipper.
( At the end of round 18 you will have 17 ridges on the wrong side.)

For larger slippers, continue until the desired length.
Cut yarn. Fasten off.

Start working in rows!
NOTE: ch 2 at beg of rows will count from now on as a hdc.

Left foot: Holding the piece with the back seam facing you count 14 sts from the back seam to the right, place a stitch marker into 14th st and a second stitch marker into the 22th st.

Right foot: Holding the piece with the back seam facing you count 13 sts from the back seam to the right, place a stitch marker into 13th st and a second stitch marker into the 21th st.

For both slippers you will have the stitch markers placed right above the heart, as seen in the picture below: