The Gradient C2C Top is a beautiful, light and airy crochet top with a shaped neck. As the name says, it is made with a gradient yarn, but you can also use a yarn in one solid color, or combine the shades you prefer.
This top is now one of my favorites; I hope you will love it also!
*Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you decide to purchase through these links. Thank you! The yarn was provided by Red Heart Yarns.
TOP CONSTRUCTION:
The top is made of two identical pieces- a front piece and a back piece - that are joined together with the crochet hook.The both pieces are first worked with the Diagonal Box Stitch/ Corner to Corner Box Stitch (c2c crochet stitch) as two big c2c squares, then you will continue to shape the neckline and the shoulders with a similar stitch to c2c, a variation of the TULIP STITCH, worked in straight rows instead of on the diagonal.
In the pattern I will call it the Box Stitch in Straight Rows!
Gradient C2C Top
SIZES, FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
The pattern is written for sizes:Small (up to 34”),
Medium (up to 38”);
Large (up to 42”),
XL (up to 46”).
Sample is a size M, pictured on a 5.2” model with a 36” bust.
The picture tutorial is also made for size M!
If you want more ease, you can go a size larger. See the schematic at the end of the pattern.
You can easily adapt the pattern to fit other sizes by working a larger/smaller c2c square and then shape the neck according to the pattern, leaving more/ less sts for the shoulder as needed.
If you have a preferred top in your wardrobe, you can compare the width of your top with the width of your c2c piece and when you reach the desired width you stop with the c2c increase rows and start the decrease c2c rows.
Keep in mind that the piece has also stretch.
CROCHET GAUGE
7 c2c blocks = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm) Check for gauge: 1 c2c square with 7 blocks each side.
SUPPLIES
- Yarn: Red Heart It’s a Wrap Sprinkles
2 (2, 2, 3) skeins
For a Size M of the top I have used 205 g total of yarn. From both skeins I had left over yarn! (If making larger sizes you will need more yarn.)
Material Composition: Cotton 50%, Acrylic 50%
Color used: Red Velvet
Skein Weight: 5.29 ounces (150 g)
Skein Length: About 623 yds (570 m)
This beautiful acrylic and cotton blend yarn is great for warmer weather projects. It’s soft and airy and it feels amazing on the skin.NOTE: Sadly this yarn is discontinued, but you can still get some on clearance on Amazon, Walmart, etc.
Or you can try these Yarn Substitutes:- Yarn Art Flowers yarn (84% match) would be a good substitute.
Material composition: 55% Cotton, 45% Acrylic
This yarn is more dense. The fabric is likely to be thicker and heavier than with the original yarn. This yarn comes in 250 grams (8.82 ounces), 1094 yards (1000 meters). - Scheepjes Whirl (84% match) would be a good substitute.
Material composition: 55% Cotton, 45% Acrylic
This yarn is more dense. The fabric is likely to be thicker and heavier than with the original yarn. This yarn comes in 215g / 1000m balls; 1094 yards (1000 meters).
- Yarn Art Flowers yarn (84% match) would be a good substitute.
- 3mm Crochet Hook
- Yarn Needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)
- ch: chain- st: stitch
- slst : slip stitch
- dc: double crochet
- ch3sp: chain 3 space
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Pattern is written in smallest size S with larger sizes in parentheses. Circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning the pattern.
Begin crocheting a c2c square as explained below! (If you want a visual of the c2c method, you can find plenty video tutorials on YouTube)
C2C Square worked in DC - THE METHOD:
Let’s see how to crochet a square with the dc box stitch and C2C Method!
Row 1: Start with ch6. Work 1dc in 4th. ch from hook and 1dc in each of next 2 ch. (The 3 skipped chains at beg of row will be a ch3sp).
You made the First and only Box Stitch of row 1!
From now on, you’ll start INCREASING 1 box st in each row.
How to increase the Box Stitch/Corner to Corner C2C) worked with the double crochet:
Row 2: Turn your work, ch 6, turn, work 1dc in 4rth. ch from hook and 1dc in each of next 2 ch. (1st. box st of the 2nd row made).
Turn your work, sk all 3dc of next box st, slst to ch3sp of that box st, ch3, work 3dc in same ch3sp. ( 2nd. Box st of the 2nd row made!)
Row 3: Turn your work, ch 6, turn, work 1dc in 3rd ch from hook and 1dc in each of next 3 ch. (1st. box st of the 3rd. row made)
Turn your work,
*sk all 3dc of next box st and slst to the ch3sp at left of that box st, ch 3, work 3dc in same ch3sp . (2nd. Box st of the 3rd row made); rep from * for the next box st (3rd. Box st of the 3rd row made).
Continue increasing 1 box st each row, until you reach 30 (34, 38, 42) on the diagonal.
Size S: 30 c2c blocks
Size M: 34 c2c blocks
Size L: 38 c2c blocks
Size XL: 42 c2c blocks
You should also have the same number of c2c blocks at the bottom of the triangle and it will give the total width of the top. The other side of the triangle will give the height of the top from bottom to the neckline.
After you reach the desired width, start decreasing on one side each row.
How to decrease the Box Stitch/Corner to Corner (C2C st) worked with the double crochet
First Decrease Row (here Row 35):
Turn your work. Do not chain 6 anymore.
sl st loosely into top of each dc of the last box stitch made in the previous row, then slst to next ch3sp of last box st from previous row, ch 3, work 3 dc into same ch3sp
(First box st of decrease row made);
*sk the 3dc of next box st and slst into the ch3sp at left of that box st, ch 3, work 3dc into same ch3sp, rep from * till you reach to the last box st of previous row. Join with slst to ch3sp of last block st from previous round.
Next Decrease Rows : Decrease each row 1 box st as written above until you get to 1 box st by last row.
Shaping the neck and shoulders with the Tulip Stitch / Box Stitch in Straight Rows
First Shoulder
After finishing the last c2c block, turn and work 1 slst in each of the 3dc of the c2c stitch at corner to reach the top edge, slst into ch3 sp of first c2c box.
Now begin to work along the top edge one row on RS:
Row 1: ch3 , work 2 dc into first ch3 sp of first c2c box st (these sts will form the first straight box stitch of the row);
*Slst into 1st dc of the next c2c box, ch3, work 1 dc into same dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc ( these sts will form the 2nd. Straight box st),
Slst into ch3-sp of next c2c box, ch3, work 3 dc into same ch3-sp, ( these sts will form the 3nd. Straight box st).
Continue to work along the top side with the straight box st as from * above until you have 9 ( 10, 11, 12 ) straight box stitches, then finish the row with a slst into ch3 space of next c2c box (or for size L, into 1st dc of next c2c block); turn.
(You should have: 9 ( 10, 11, 12) straight box sts total)
Row 2 (decrease at beg of row): 1 slst in each of next 3 dc of first straight box st, slst into next ch3 sp, ch3, work 3 dc into same ch3sp; *sk next 3 dc, slst into next ch3 sp, work 3dc in same ch3sp;
Repeat from * to last ch3sp at end of row, ending with 1 sc into last ch3 sp of last c2cst on edge, turn.
8 ( 9,10, 11) straight box sts total
Row 3: ch 3, work 2 dc into 1st sc, *sk next 3dc, slst into next ch3 sp, ch3, work 3dc in same ch3sp;
Repeat from * to last ch3sp at end of row, ending with a slst into ch3 sp of last box of previous row, turn.
8 ( 9,10, 11) straight box sts total
Row 4 (decrease at beg of row): slst into each of next 3 dc, sl st into first ch3 sp, work 3 dc into same ch3sp;
*sk next 3dc, slst into next ch3 sp, work 3dc in same ch3sp;
Repeat from * to end of row, ending with 1 sc into ch3 sp of last c2cst on edge; turn.
7 ( 8, 9, 10) straight box sts total
Row 5 (last row): ch3, 2 dc in sc, *sk next 3dc, work (1sc, 1hdc and 1dc) into next ch3sp;
Repeat from * to last ch3sp at end of row, ending with a slst into ch3 sp of last box of previous row.
The last row will even out the edge.
Second Shoulder
Row 1: Turn piece and join yarn with slst into top of ch3 of 1st c2c box at right corner; ch3, work 2 dc in same ch3 st, * slst to ch3sp of next c2c box, work 3dc in same ch3sp;
*Slst into 1st dc of the next c2c sts, ch3, work 1 dc into same dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc ( these sts will form the 2nd. Straigh box st),
Slst into ch3-sp of next c2c box, ch3, work 3 dc into same ch3-sp ( these sts will form the 3nd. Straigh box st).
Continue to work along the top side with the straight box st as from * above until you have 9 ( 10, 11, 12 ) straight box stitches, then finish the row with a slst into ch3 space of next c2c box (or for size L, into 1st dc of next c2c block); turn.
You should have: 9 ( 10, 11, 12 ) straight box sts total
Rows 2- 5 : repeat as Rows 2-5 of the first shoulder.
Cut yarn leaving a longer tail that will be used for shoulder seam.
Joining the front and back pieces together
1. Joining the 2 pieces together at shoulders:
Place front and back pieces on top of each other, so that the colors are matching.
Line up the shoulder edges of the front and back pieces.
Using the crochet hook and and the long strand of yarn left at the end of the shoulders join the 2 pieces together with slst, inserting the hook through the back loop of the shoulder edge sts on one piece and front loop of the corresponding stitches on the other piece.
Cut yarn. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
The seam will be on the wrong side!
Repeat joining for the other shoulder!
2. Joining along the sides:
Continue on the wrong side with the side joining.
From shoulder down leave approx. 8”( 8.5”, 9”, 9.5”) for arm opening.
Holding the two pieces together, attach the yarn with slst between next 2 matching box stitches and knot so the yarn is secure; ch 3 and join the pieces together with a slst between the next 2 matching box stitch edges.
Continue working slst and chain 3 until you reach the end of the sides (or if desired, leave a few box sts unworked to have the bottom seams open as side slits.)
Neckline Trim
Turn the piece on RS.Join yarn with a slst to a stitch at middle back upper edge, slst evenly around the neck opening (I have worked 1 slst in each dc st and 3 slsts into each ch3 space around the neck opening). Finish off invisible. Cut yarn. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
I have not added a border neither to the bottom, nor to the armholes, because I didn’t want to mess up the beautiful color gradient.
I hope you enjoy this pattern!
Here is a Pin for your Crochet board on Pinterest!
Schematic
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Gradient C2C Top
Written Instructions and Pictures Copyright © June 2024 Kinga Erdem
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work (no mass production), a link back to my blog would be appreciated. Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends. You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you,
Kinga
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