My little girl loved the Heart and Sole Slippers for Women that I have previously designed and asked me to make a pair for her too.
This is what I came up with! Now we have matching Mommy and Me Heart Slippers! They are thick, warm and so cozy! :) We love them very much! I hope that you and the children in your life will love them as much as we do!
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Size: The slipppers will fit 3 year old children.
- For longer slippers work more rounds and rows.
- For wider and longer slippers, you could try using a thicker yarn and larger hook size.
GAUGE: 16 stitches and 15 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in front post double crochet
SUPPLIES:
- 1 skein of DK / 8 ply yarn in dark pink (color A) and small amount of white (color B). I have used Red Heart Lisa (available in Europe), but you can replace it with other yarn having the same weight, for example Red Heart Comfort Sport Yarn available in the US.
- 4.5 mm crochet hook
- tapestry needle to sew in the ends
- stitch marker or a small piece of yarn
- scissors.
STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
bpdc: back post double crochet
st: stitch
yo: yarn over
slst: slip stitch
sk: skip
SPECIAL STITCHES:
standing hdc: See this Tutorial on Moogly blog!
bpdc2tog inv= invisible decrease back post double crochet= yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the next 2 sts (at the same time) on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.
See this Video Tutorial by Woolpedia on YouTube! It's for the front post decrease but you can see how to insert the hook around 2 stitches. Do in the same manner for the back post decrease inserting the hook from back to front around the post of 2 sts.
HEART & SOLE SLIPPERS
SLIPPER INSTRUCTIONS (make 2):
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: ch1, work 9 hdc into ring, join with slst to top of first hdc. (9 sts)
Note: ch 2 at beg of rounds will not count as a stitch.
Round 2: ch2, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around the same st as the dc just made), repeat around, join with slst to top of first st. (18 sts)
Round 3: ch2, 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 6 sts, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts; join with slst to top of first st (22 sts)
Round 4: ch2, 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 8 sts, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1 dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts; join with slst to top of first st (26 sts)
Begin of the heart pattern! Graph available below!
For the small child size of the slippers, I have used a smaller heart graph, so that it fits the instep.
NOTES:
How to change colors: work the last st before changing colors till half, having 2 loops on hook, pick CC yarn and end the stitch, pulling CC yarn through the 2 loops on hook.
Do not not cut yarns when changing colors, you can choose to work around the yarn not in use, or you can carry the unworked yarns across the back. Keep the tension of the strands not in use a little loose, to maintain elasticity.
To avoid long floats of yarn, you need to catch the yarn not in use. Watch the Video Tutorial from Bobwilson123 for the Hat with Love to learn how to do that.
Round 5: Continue with yarn color A, ch2, 1 fpdc around each of next 12 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 13 sts, slst to top of first st.
Round 6: With A ch2, work 1 fpdc around each of next 11 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1 fpdc around each of next 12 sts, slst to top of first st.
Round 7: With A ch2, work 1 fpdc around each of next 10 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 5 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1 fpdc around each of next 11 sts, slst to top of first st.
Round 8: With A ch2, work 1 fpdc around each of next 9 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 7 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 10 sts, slst to top of first st.
Round 9: With A ch2, work 1 fpdc around each of next 9 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc till half, change to B at half way, with B work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 10 sts, slst to top of first st.
Round 10: With A work 1 fpdc around each of next 10 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts, change to B at last st, with B 1 fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 11 sts, slst to top of first st.
Rounds 11-13: With A work 26 fpdc around, slst to top of first fpdc.
Cut yarn. Fasten off.
Start working in rows!
Note: ch 2 at beg of rows will count as a hdc.
Holding the piece with the back seam facing you, count 10 sts from the back seam to the right, place a stitch marker, then join yarn with a standing hdc into the 10th st. Continue to work row 1.
Row 1: work 1 fpdc around each of next 8 sts, work 1 fpdc around both next fpdc and the ch2 of previous round, work 1 fpdc around each of next 8 sts, dc in top of next st, ch2, turn. (19 sts)
(you will have 7 unworked stitches at the front).
Row 2: ch2, (count as hdc), 1 bpdc around each of next 17 sts,1 hdc in top of standing hdc, turn. . (19 sts)
Row 3: ch2, (count as hdc), 1 fpdc around each of next 17 sts,1 hdc in top of ch2, turn. (19 sts)
Row 4: ch2, (count as hdc), 1 bpdc around each of next 17 sts,1 hdc in top of ch2, turn. (19 sts)
Repeat as rows 3-4 until on the wrong side you will have 7 ridges above the yarn join to work in rows.
After 6 ridges on the wrong side, work a Decrease Row on the wrong side: ch2, 1 bpdc around each of next 7 sts, bpdc3tog inv, 1 bpdc around each of next 7 sts, 1 hdc in top of ch2. (17 sts)
(For larger slippers continue to work a few more rows as 3-4 before decreasing. Try the slipper on child's foot.)
Next row: ch2, 1 fpdc around each of next 15 sts, 1 hdc in top of ch2. (17 sts).
Joining the sides at back heel:
Turn piece on the wrong side.
Ch1, join at heel the sides together sl stitching through both top loops of each side. Don't fasten off! Slip stitch back to top. Ch 1 and turn piece on the right side again.
Continue to work in rounds around the foot opening:
Round 1: Work 28 hdc evenly placed around foot opening, slst to top of first hdc. (28 sts)
Round 2: ch3, sk 1 st, *1 fpdc around next st, ch1, sk 1 st*, repeat around from * to *, slst with B to top of first fpdc.
Round 3: with B ch2, 1 fpdc around first skipped hdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc, *1 fpdc around next skipped hdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc*, repeat from * to * around, slst with A to top of first fpdc.
Round 4: with A ch2, 1 fpdc around first skipped fpdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc, *1 fpdc around next skipped fpdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc*, repeat from * to * around,slst with B to top of first fpdc.
Round 5: with B repeat as round 4, slst with A.
Round 6: with A repeat as round 4; at the last repeat don't ch 1 anymore before sl stitching to top of first fpdc. Cut yarn. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
Make the slippers non-slip using one of the methods compiled by Moogly Blog!
I hope you will enjoy this pattern!
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Toddler Heart & Sole Slippers
Written Instructions and Pictures Copyright 2015 Kinga Erdem
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated. Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends. You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you.
Kinga
Ty for the pattern
ReplyDeleteYou're very welcome!
DeleteThanks so much! Your patterns are awesome!
ReplyDeleteYou're very welcome! I'm so glad you enjoy my patterns! :)
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