Disclaimer: This blog makes use of sponsored and/or affiliate links. Please see this page for more information.

Thursday, February 25, 2016

Echo Ridge Slouch Hat - Free Crochet Pattern

The beautiful ribbed texture of the Echo Ridge Slouch Hat is created by the post stitches and the innovative half double crochet in the 3rd loop at the front. You can almost get fooled and think it is a knit hat!

Crochet Echo Ridge slouch hat

*Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you decide to purchase through these links. Thank you! The yarn was provided by Red Heart Yarns. Crochet Hook provided by Furls Crochet.

Echo Ridge Slouch

This pretty crochet hat it is worked with a self striping yarn, so you don't have to worry about changing colors. But if you like, you can use a solid color with the same yarn weight instead.

crochet hat echo ridge slouch

SIZE

one size to fit all women; hat height: 22 cm

SUPPLIES:

- 1 skein of Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable ( colorway Echo)
- 4.5 mm crochet hook
- 5.5 mm crochet hook Addi Swing Crochet Hook
- 1 button (2.5 cm or 1 inch)
- yarn needle to sew in the ends
- scissors.

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

ch: chain
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
bpdc: back post double crochet
st: stitch
yo: yarn over
standing dc: standing double crochet
sp: space

SPECIAL STITCHES:

  1. hdc in the 3rd loop at frontWatch this Video from Maggie’s Crochet to learn how to work the hdc in 3rd loop at front (please note that she calls it the Royal Ridge Stitch.)
  2. dec fpdc: decrease front post double crochet (See my tutorial here)= yo, insert the hook from the front to the back around the post of the first st,
    yo, pull a loop through; you have now 3 loops on hook;
    yo, pull through first 2 loops on hook; you have now 2 loops on hook;
    leaving the 2 loops on the hook, yo, insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the next st, yo and pull a loop through; you have now 4 loops on hook;
    yo, pull through first 2 loops on hook; you have now 3 loops on hook;
    yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

~ Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queues and Favorites! ~

~ Pin it here! ~

crochet ribbed slouch hat, echo ridge slouch

HAT INSTRUCTIONS:

The hat is started with the band worked in rows; then continued in rounds from bottom to the top.

The Band:


working crochet band of the Echo Ridge Slouch Hat

Row 1 (right side): With hook size 4.5 mm ch 11. Work 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and 1 hdc in each ch across. (10 hdc)

NOTE: To avoid loops at the edge, from now on, the last stitch of each row from the band will be worked using the both top loops.

Row 2 (wrong side):  ch1 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout the pattern), turn, working in the 3rd loop at front of the hdc sts, hdc in each st across. (10 hdc)

Repeat row 2 until you have 29 ridges, then continue with the buttonhole.

Button hole: ch1, turn, work in 3rd loop at front, 1 hdc in each of next 4 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, work in 3rd loop at front 1 hdc in each of the last 4 sts.

Next row: ch1, turn, work in 3rd loop at front 1 hdc in each of next 4 sts, work normal 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, work in 3rd loop at front 1 hdc in each of last 4 sts. (10 hdc)
Cut yarn. Fasten off.

The ribbed band resembles a bit to a knit pattern of *1 knit (the V looking ridges), 2 purl stitches* repeat around.
Sew the button on the opposite end of the band, placing it in the middle of the second purl looking ridge, as in the picture above.
Fold the band over and close the button. Turn piece on the wrong side and sew the end in place.

The body of hat worked in rounds:

Take the band and try it on your head, placing the button to the side. Find the V- ridge in the middle of the back side and place a stitch marker at the edge of the cuff; that's where you will join yarn to start working the body of the hat.

Round 1: Change to hook size 5.5mm!
Join yarn with a standing dc into the st where you placed the st marker.
Work 81 dc sts evenly spaced around the edge of band, like this: 1 dc in each of the 2 purl looking stitches and 1 dc into each V looking ridge; when you reach to the overlap piece with the buttonhole, do not work into the overlap piece, only into the loops of the band piece behind; continue working dc sts around as written above, join with sl st to top of first dc. (81 dc)

In the picture below, I wanted to show how to work around the band, please ignore the sc sts!

Round 2: ch1, work 1 fpdc around the standing dc one round below, work 1 bpdc around each of the next 2 dc; repeat the sequence of *1 fpdc, 2 bpdc* around, join with sl st to top of first fpdc.  ( 81 sts )

NOTE: If you have worked correctly, the ridges created by the fpdc sts should align with the V ridges of the band and the 2 bpdc should align with the purl looking sts of the band!

Round 3: ch1, work *1 fpdc around next fpdc, 1 bpdc around each of the next 2 bpdc * repeat around from * to *, join with sl st to top of first fpdc. . (81 sts)

Repeat as round 3 until your piece is 20 cm height (including the band). Work more rounds if you would like a longer slouch.

Shaping the top of the hat:

Note: Use stitch markers or pieces of yarn to mark the stitches that will be skipped! Place first st marker around the second from the 2 bpdc sts at the beg of round; after each 9 sts, place another st marker around the next bpdc. You will have 9 st markers evenly placed around.

Decrease round 1:
(This round you will decrease 9 sts, skipping the marked bpdc stitches!)

ch1, work 1fpdc around next fpdc, *work 1 bpdc around next bpdc, sk next marked bpdc, work 1 fpdc around next fpdc, (1 bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, 1 fpdc around next fpdc) x 2 times* , repeat around from * to *, around, at the last repeat you will end with 1 bpdc around each of last 2 bpdc around. Join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (72 sts)

Decrease round 2:
Note: This round you will decrease 18 sts, skipping the second bpdc of each 2 bpdc groups.

ch 1, work *1 fpdc around next fpdc, 1 bpdc around next bpdc, (1 fpdc around next fpdc, 1 bpdc around next bpdc, sk next bpdc) x 2 times * repeat from * to * around, join with sl st to top of first fpdc. ( 54 sts)

Decrease round 3:
Note: This round you will work only the fpdc stitches, skipping the bpdc stitches.

ch1, * 1 fpdc around next fpdc, sk next bpdc*, repeat from * to * around. (27 sts)

Decrease round 4: ch 1, *dec fpdc around next 2sts, 1 fpdc around next st*, repeat from * to * around. (18 sts)

Decrease round 5: ch 1, dec fpdc every next 2 sts. (9 sts)

Cut yarn leaving a long end that will be used to close the hole on top of the hat.

Closing the hole on top of the hat:

Turn the hat inside out, thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail and weave in and out around the hole on top of the hat. Pull yarn tail tight to close the hole. To secure, weave the yarn through a few times. Cut yarn and fasten off.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

You might like some more of my free patterns using Red Heart Unforgettable yarn:

  1. Flora Wrap
  2. "Double Layered Stars" Twist Headband

For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!

Don't miss out new free crochet patterns, tutorials and other updates from My Hobby is Crochet! SUBSCRIBE to our FREE Newsletter and follow My Hobby is Crochet on Facebook, Pinterest ,Instagram and YouTube.


"Echo Ridge Slouch
Written Instructions and Pictures Copyright © 2016 Kinga Erdem

This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated. Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends. You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you,
Kinga

Print Friendly and PDF

24 comments:

  1. This pattern makes a terrific hat - thick, warm, and ribbed to fit. Thanks for sharing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoy your hat! :)

      Delete
  2. I have worked the 29 rows for the band and it's much too short to go around my head...and I don't have a big

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! Have you worked with the yarn and hook recommended in the pattern? The band will stretch when worn. If you make it too long, the hat will stretch out and it will end up too wide.

      Delete
    2. You are reading the pattern wrong. You should have 29 ridges,not 29 rows! And that's double the rows!

      Delete
  3. how long should the band be? I have 29 ridges and the band is 16" not long enough to stretch around my head.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You have 29 ridges, not rows, right? That would be double of rows, 58 rows! The band will stretch...if you make it longer it will stretch out and end up too wide...the hat will fall over your eyes when worn.

      Delete
    2. No, you have 31 ridges after you make the buttonhole row and the last row. Please read the instructions more carefully.

      Delete
  4. I just finished this hat. I used the yarn and hook sizes recommended. I went to the 20 cm before I started shaping, but the hat did not come out slouchy. I did skip round 5 of the decreases and closed the hole at 18 inches, but I had to because I ran out of yarn. Other than that any idea why it’s long and tubey and not a flat and round slouch?
    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, it is just because of that! The 5. round of decreases will cinch the top together. Please do not skip that step if you would like a shaped top and avoid the bulk.

      Delete
  5. Thank you kings for a very beautiful hat and so good instructions!! Tnx a lot!!!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thank you very much for the beautiful hat and so good instructions!! Tnx a lot!!!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Im not understanding the instructions written under "The body of hat worked in rounds:". What do you mean by the v-ridge? Can you clarify please?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's the v- looking stitch of the ribbing.

      Delete
  8. Under The body of hat worked in rounds: - round 1, what do you mean there should be a dc in each purl and ridge stitches? I don't see how it adds to 81 dc in total. How many dc are there in between each ridge? Please clarify.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. As written in the pattern: "Work 81 dc sts evenly spaced around the edge of band, like this: 1 dc in each of the 2 purl looking stitches and 1 dc into each V looking ridge; when you reach to the overlap piece with the buttonhole, do not work into the overlap piece, only into the loops of the band piece behind; continue working dc sts around as written above, join with sl st to top of first dc. (81 dc)

      Delete
  9. My hobby is crochet,but my problem is that I don't understand the language describing the pattern

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm sorry, but what don't you understand exactly?

      Delete
  10. ThankYou so much ! I rarely make things for myself, I saw this pattern on Pinterest and put it on the board designated for things I would like. (That just hardly ever get made) .It’s been really cold lately here on the Oregon coast and I desperately needed a warm hat, so I pulled up your pattern that looks complicated but is SUPER easy due to your great instructions. In just a few short hours I had my hat I love ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ this hat !!!!! I think I will be looking at more of your patterns to see what else I can make for myself in between all the other stuff I of course have promised to family lol. Again Kinga you are truly talented and I thank you 🙏

    ReplyDelete
  11. Very nice pattern, love the crown. Hat turned out beautifully, I'm kind of sad that I made it as a gift.

    ReplyDelete
  12. I'm so confused..... When exactly do you add the button hole? And how many stitches do you place in the band to start the hat rounds?

    ReplyDelete
  13. I do feel it would be helpful if you added a gauge to the pattern. I know that my sizes NEVER match up with the size hooks suggested to use. Also, instead of just saying "you should have " this # of ridges, let us know what things should measure. That is all people are asking. I know that if I use that size hook, and stitched to that many number of "ridges", I will not be able to wear this hat. It is a very beautiful hat, however, I doubt I will be able to make it.

    ReplyDelete