Combine your crochet and sewing skills to make this pretty toddler dress/top using a small amount of yarn and fabric. Don't worry if you can not machine sew! You can also sew it by hand.
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Combining different fabrics and yarn colors, you'll have a different cute little dress each time! I hope that you will love this toddler dress as much as I do!
Crochet & Fabric Dress Elisa
SIZE: 18 - 24 months
- Crochet yoke around chest: 21” (54 cm)
- Fabric skirt: 14.5″ (37 cm) width at the bottom edge and 26 cm (10”) height
GAUGE: 19 dc = 4" (10 cm)
SUPPLIES:
- 70 g mercerized cotton Red Heart Miami (from European lot). You can use any other Sport weight cotton yarn that meets the gauge
- 3.5 mm Crochet Hook
- cotton fabric: I have used a small fabric sample that I had in my stash. For richer ruffles and a longer skirt please use a larger piece of fabric. My piece of fabric was approx. 12”X 30” (30 cm X 76 cm)
- 3 small buttons= 0.59” or 1.5 cm
- sewing thread and needle
- Sewing Machine
- scissors
- pins
- Measuring Tape
STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
- ch: chain
- FSC: foundation single crochet. See this video tutorial on Moogly blog!
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- st: stitch
- csdc: chainless starting double crochet. NOTE: To avoid gaps on the edge, I have used the csdc instead of ch3 at the beginning of rows. If you are not familiar with the csdc, you can watch this video tutorial by Moogly to learn how to. (Or you can use the traditional ch3 if you prefer that way)
- Corner: (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into indicated st
- Picot: ch 3, insert hook into back bar of the first chain, yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook.
Special Stitches:
- Back Crossed Double Crochet (bcrdc): sk 1 st, work 1 dc into the next st, 1 dc back into skipped st going behind the last dc just made, so as not to catch it. (Watch this video tutorial from Crochet Cabana to learn how to Back Crochet Double Crochet.)
- Front Crossed Double Crochet variation (fcrdc): sk 1 st, work 1 dc into the next st, 1 dc back into skipped st going in front of the last dc just made so as not to catch it.
PATTERN CROCHET YOKE:
NOTES: The yoke is worked in one piece, top down in rows.
Row 1: With 3.5 mm crochet hook work 80 FSC.
Row 2: 1 csdc, turn, 1dc in each of next 8 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 1dc in each of next 20 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 1dc in each of next 18 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 1dc in each of next 20 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in next st, 1dc in each of next 9 sts.
Row 3: 1 csdc, turn, work 4 bcrdc across next 8 sts, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 10 bcrdc across next 20 sts, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 9 bcrdc across next 18 sts, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 10 bcrdc across next 20 sts, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 4 bcrdc across next 8 sts, 1dc into top of csdc.
Row 4: 1 csdc, turn, work 5 fcrdc, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 12 fcrdc, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 11 fcrdc, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 12 fcrdc, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 5 fcrdc, 1dc into top of csdc.
Row 5: 1 csdc, turn, work 1 dc in each of next 11 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner,1 dc in each of next 26 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 24 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 26 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 12 sts.
Row 6: 1 csdc, turn, work 1 dc in each of next 12 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner,1 dc in each of next 28 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 26 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 28 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 13 sts.
Row 7: 1 csdc, turn, work 6 bcrdc, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 14 bcrdc, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 13 bcrdc, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 14 bcrdc, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 6 bcrdc, 1dc into top of csdc.
Row 8: 1 csdc, turn, work 7 fcrdc, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 16 fcrdc, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 15 fcrdc, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 16 fcrdc, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 7 fcrdc, 1dc into top of csdc.
Row 9: 1 csdc, turn, work 1 dc in each of next 15 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner,1 dc in each of next 34 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 32 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 34 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 16 sts.
Row 10: 1 csdc, turn, work 1 dc in each of next 16 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner,1 dc in each of next 36 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 34 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 36 sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1 dc in each of next 17 sts.
Row 11: 1 csdc, turn, work 8 bcrdc, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 18 bcrdc, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 17 bcrdc, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 18 bcrdc, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into ch space of next corner, 1dc in next st, work 8 bcrdc, 1dc into top of csdc.
Row 12: 1 csdc, turn, work 9 fcrdc, 1dc into ch space of next corner, skip all the sts till next corner, ch 6 (this will form the first underarm), 1dc into ch space of next corner, 19 fcrdc, 1dc into ch space of next corner, skip all the sts till next corner, ch 6 (this will form the second underarm), 1dc into ch space of next corner, 9 fcrdc, 1dc into top of csdc. Join into round with sl st to top of the csdc at beg of the row.
From now on you’ll work in rounds!
Next round: ch1, 1 sc in same st and 1 sc in each st across (you’ll work 6 sc around the 6 chs at each underarm), join with sl st to top of first sc.
Next round, the Picot edging: ch1, *1sc, picot, ch1, sk 1 sc*, repeat from * to * across, sl st to top of first sc.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Adding the button holes at the center back yoke:
Work in the ends of rows. Holding the yoke with the back side facing you, join yarn with a standing sc into the top right corner,*for buttonhole chain 6 tight or as many chains needed for the size of your buttons, sk 1 dc bar, 2 sc for each of next 3 dc on the edge; repeat from * for the next 2 buttonholes; continue working 2 sc for each of next 3 dc on the left edge.
Finishing the yoke:
With sewing thread and needle sew the buttons on the opposite site of the buttonholes.
FABRIC BODIES:
Cut the fabric for the body of the dress to desired length. Join together up the centre back and finish the raw edges.
Gather the top of the fabric to match the width of the crochet yoke.
Sewing the crochet yoke to the fabric bodice:
Turn the crochet yoke and fabric bodice wrong side out. Pin the fabric to the crochet yoke around the last single crochet round of the yoke; ensure it’s evenly gathered around and the back seam of the fabric matches the back seam of the crochet yoke.
I have first hand sewn the yoke in place on the inside and machine sewn it after on the right side twice: first time around the last single crochet round of the yoke; second time just above the picot edging to keep it in place.
I hope you enjoy this pattern! For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!
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Crochet and Fabric Toddler Dress Elisa -
Written Instructions and Pictures Copyright © 2017 Kinga Erdem
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated. Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends. You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you.
Kinga
Is there any way to email me how to modify this gor a larger size? I need 4t and up
ReplyDeleteHi, I'm sorry, but this is the only size available. I have not made the math for larger sizes.
DeleteI'd suggest using this crochet pattern and a larger hook, say one hook size up (possibly) for each T size needed, plus worsted weight (#4) yarn. (Measure your swatches to be sure the total width would be the width you'd need for your child/grandchild.) Maybe hook size H for a size 4T. Or just crochet a few rows in your chosen hook size and check to see if it fits child. At least these would be the options I'd try for a larger size without a larger size written pattern. I don't sew so I will make this into a totally crocheted dress.
ReplyDeleteError? In row 9 it states 17 dc in the last 17, shouldn't it be 16? The beginning equal turning chain plus
ReplyDelete16 totaling 16
Thanks, Dawn
Hi,it might be a tipping error. Thanks for letting me know!
DeleteIs there a way to make this baby size?
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful dress you have designed! I am going to try making if for a gift. Thank you so much for generously sharing your pattern.
ReplyDelete