The Chic Cable Crochet Beanie is a soft, warm and luxurious hat with a great stitch definition.
I really love how it turned out! I hope you will like it as much as I do!
*Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you decide to purchase through these links. Thank you!
The yarn was provided by Red Heart Yarns.
Do you love crochet cables but are intimidated by them? Don’t be anymore! This pattern comes with a step by step picture tutorial showing you how to work them!
It might look complicated, but after you learn the post stitches involved, you’ll see that it’s quite easy! There are only 2 rounds repeat to complete a cable!
Chic Cable Beanie
Notes:
The hat is started with the ribbing worked in rows sideways; then continued in rounds from bottom to the top.
To change the sizes, I have increased the spaces between the cables. That's why the cables are closer together by toddler size (pictured below!). I really like this version! How about you?
Materials used:
- 2 skeins of Chic Sheep by Marly Bird Wool Yarn , in coloway Regal for toddler size and Sterlight for adult size, a 100% mercerized merino wool yarn, yarn weight: 4 - medium
- 5 mm crochet hook
- yarn needle
- scissors
- one Faux Fur Pompom Ball 
Gauge:
For brim: 5 sts worked in yo-slst = 2.5 cm / 1”
For body of hat: 4 sts worked in bpdc = 2.5 cm/ 1”
1 cable made of 8 sts = 4.5 cm / approx.1.8”
Sizes:
Toddler: fits 18”-19” (46 cm- 48 cm) head circumference; hat height: 7.5” (19 cm)
Children: fits 19”- 20.8” (48.5 cm- 53 cm) head circumference; hat height: 8” (20 cm)
Teen - Adult Small: fits 21” - 22” ( 53.5 cm - 55 cm) head circumference, hat height 8.25” (21 cm)
Stitches, Terms (US) and Abbreviations used:
- ch: chain
- back bump of chains: Click here for my picture tutorial.
- sl st : slip stitch
- st: stitch
- dc: double crochet
- sk:skip
- yo: yarn over
- fpdc: front post double crochet: Yo, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on your hook.
-dec-fpdc: (Invisible) decrease front post double crochet: Yo, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of both next 2 sts, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on your hook. Check out my Tutorial here!
- bpdc: back post double crochet: Yo, insert your hook from back to front to back around the post of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on your hook.
dec-bpdc: (Invisible) decrease back post double crochet: Yo, insert your hook from back to front to back around the post of both next 2 sts, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on your hook.
- fptr: front post triple crochet: Yo 2 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
- dec-fptr: (Invisible) decrease front post triple crochet: Yo 2 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of both next 2 stitches, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops on your hook) 3 times.
Knit-like Crochet Ribbing Stitches:
yo-slst:Yarn Over Slip Stitch : Yarn over (yo) and insert the hook into 2nd chain from hook; yarn over and draw the yarn through the chain (You have now 3 loops on the hook). Having the 3 loops on hook, pull/slip the first loop on hook through the next 2 loops on hook to complete a Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yo-slst). Click here for my PICTURE TUTORIAL!
yo-slst-blo: yarn over slip stitch back loops only: work the stitch as described above, but inserting the hook only into the back loops of the stitches.
INSTRUCTIONS:
(A picture tutorial is shown for the adult size at the end of the post)RIBBED BAND:
The ribbing pattern is written for toddler size with changes in parenthesis for child and adult size.
Chain 7(8, 9).
Row 1: Working entire row into back bump of chains, crochet 1 yo-slst into 2nd ch from hook and 1 yo-slst into each ch across; ch 1, turn.
(Total: 6 sts for toddler size, 7 sts child size, 8 sts adult size)
Row 2: yo-slst blo in each of next 5 sts (6 sts, 7 sts), 1 yo-sl st using both top loops of the last st.
(Total: 6 sts, 7 sts, 8 sts)
Notes:
To avoid loops at the edge, the last stitch of each row will be worked using both top loops.
Repeat as row 2 until you have:
- 33 ribs for toddler size
- 36 ribs for child size
- 39 ribs for adult size (Shown below)
Do not cut yarn! Continue with the Seam!
SEAM: Fold the piece into half, hold Row 1 edge above the last row edge. Chain 1 and slip stitch the short sides together inserting the hook through the back loops of the stitches on both sides; ch1 and turn the piece inside out, so that the seam will be hidden on the wrong side.
Note: Join the edges in a way that will make the V-like rib stitches to stay up after turning the piece inside out.
Continue working the Body of Hat on the right side.
From here the pattern is written individually for each size!
TODDLER SIZE:
( See the picture tutorial for the adult size at the end of the post!)
BODY OF THE HAT:
Work in the round around the edge:
Round 1: ch1, work around the edge 66 yo-slsts evenly placed ( working one st into each rib st and one st into each “valley” st on the edge); join into round with slst to top of first yo-slst.
Place 6 stitch markers or yarn pieces into each 11. St around.
Placing stitch markers will help when working the cable pattern to not work into marked stitches 2 times! You will understand what I mean while you work!
Round 2 ( see note below): ch2, *work 1 bpdc around each of next 3 sts, sk next 2 sts, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 sts, going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of 2 skipped sts, sk next 2 sts, work 1 dc into each of next 2 sts (NOTE: the 2nd dc st will be worked into the marked st! When working the next repeat do not work the next bpdc into the marked st! )going in front of the 2 dc sts just made, work 1 fptr around each of 2 skipped sts* , repeat from *to * around 6 times, slst to top of first bpdc.
(66 sts. You should have 6 cables x 8 sts + 6 spaces between cables x 3 sts)
Note: Beginning with round 2, you will "hide" the starting ch2, by working the 1st bpdc inserting the hook & under and at the right of the ch2, so that to catch it.
You can now remove the st markers.
Round 3: ch2, *work 1bpdc around each of next 3 bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 8 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. (66 sts)
Round 4: ch2, *work 1bpdc around each of next 3 bpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 fpdc; going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 fptr around each of the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. (66 sts)
Rounds 5 - 13: Repeat rounds 3-4, ending with a round 3 repeat. Your piece should have 6 complete cables in height and the crochet piece should measure 13 cm in height including the ribbing. (66 sts)
SHAPING THE TOP:
Round 1:(Note: This round you’ll decrease only the bpdc sts between cables from 3 bpdc to 2 bpdc sts ; the cables will be worked the same as round 4.)
ch2, * 1bpdc around next bpdc, work 1dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 fpdc; going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 fptr around each of the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. (60 sts)
Round 2: (Note: this round you’ll decrease only the bpdc sts between cables from 2 bpdc to 1 bpdc st; the cables will be worked the same as round 3.)
ch 2, *work 1 dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 8 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first dec bpdc. (54 sts)
Cable decreases:
Round 3: (Note: This round you’ll decrease each cable from 8 sts to 6 sts!)
ch2, *1 bpdc around next dec-bpdc of previous round, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dec-fptr around next 2 fpdc; going behind the dec-fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 dec-fptr around the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. (42 sts)
Round 4: ch2, *1 bpdc around next bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 6 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. ( 42 sts)
Round 5: (Note: This round you’ll decrease each cable from 6 sts to 4 sts!
ch 2, *1 bpdc around next bpdc, sk 1 fpdc, work 1 dec-fptr around next 2 fpdc; going behind the dec-fptr just made, work 1 dc into the skipped 1 fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into the skipped 1 fpdc; going in front of 1 dc just made, work 1 dec-fptr around the 2 skipped fpdc; repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. ( 30 sts)
Round 6: ch 2, *1 bpdc around next bpdc, work 1dec- fpdc around each of next 2 fpdc*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. ( 18 sts)
Cut yarn leaving a long tail that will be used to close the hole on top of the hat.
Turn the hat inside out, thread needle with the long yarn tail and weave yarn through ends of last round; pull the yarn tight to close the hole. Secure by weaving the yarn through for a few more times, then fasten off!
CHILD SIZE:
( See the picture tutorial for the adult size at the end of the post!)
BODY OF HAT:
Work in the round around the edge:
Round 1: ch1, work around the edge 72 yo-slsts evenly placed ( working one st into each rib st and one st into each “valley” st on the edge); join into round with slst to top of first yo-slst.
Place 6 stitch markers or yarn pieces into each 12. St around. ( See the picture tutorial for the adult size below). Placing stitch markers will help when working the cable pattern to not work into marked stitches 2 times! You will understand what I mean while you work!
Round 2: ch2, *work 1 bpdc around each of next 4 sts, sk next 2 sts, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 sts, going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of 2 skipped sts, sk next 2 unworked sts, work 1 dc into each of next 2 sts (NOTE: the 2nd dc st will be worked into the marked st! When working the next repeat do not work the next bpdc into the marked st! ); going in front of the 2 dc sts just made, work 1 fptr around each of 2 skipped sts* , repeat from *to * around 6 times, slst to top of first bpdc.
(72 sts total . You should have 6 cables x 8 sts + 6 spaces between cables x 4 sts)
You can now remove the st markers.
Round 3: ch2, *work 1bpdc around each of next 4 bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 8 sts of next cable this way: 1 fpdc around each of next 2 fptr, 1 fpdc around each of next 4 dc, 1 fpdc around each of next 2 fptr*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. (72 sts)
Round 4: ch2, *work 1bpdc around each of next 4 bpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 fpdc; going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 fptr around each of the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. (72 sts)
Rounds 5 - 14: Repeat rounds 3-4, ending with a round 4 repeat. (72 sts)
You should have started the 7.th cable in height and the piece should measure 15 cm in height including the ribbing.
SHAPING THE TOP:
Round 1:(Note: This round you’ll decrease only the bpdc sts between cables from 4 bpdc to 3 bpdc sts ; the cables will be worked the same as round 3.)
ch2, * 1bpdc around next bpdc, work 1dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, 1bpdc around next bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 8 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. (66 sts)
Round 2:(Note: this round you’ll decrease only the bpdc sts between cables from 3 bpdc to 2 bpdc sts; the cables will be worked the same as round 4.)
ch 2, *work 1bpdc around next bpdc, 1 dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 fpdc; going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 fptr around each of the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round.
(60 sts)
Round 3:(Note:This round you’ll decrease only the bpdc sts between cables from 2 bpdc to 1 bpdc st; the cables will be worked the same as round 3.)
ch 2, *work 1 dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 8 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first dec bpdc. (54 sts)
Cable decreases:
Round 4: (Note: This round you’ll decrease each cable from 8 sts to 6 sts!)
ch2, *1 bpdc around next dec-bpdc of previous round, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dec-fptr around next 2 fpdc; going behind the dec-fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 dec-fptr around the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. (42 sts)
Round 5: ch2, *1 bpdc around next bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 6 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. ( 42 sts)
Round 6: (Note: This round you’ll decrease each cable from 6 sts to 4 sts!
ch 2, *1 bpdc around next bpdc, sk 1 fpdc, work 1 dec-fptr around next 2 fpdc; going behind the dec-fptr just made, work 1 dc into the skipped 1 fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into next 1 fpdc; going in front of 1 dc just made, work 1 dec-fptr around the 2 skipped fpdc; repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. ( 30 sts)
Round 7: ch 2, *1 bpdc around next bpdc, work 1dec- fpdc around each of next 2 fpdc*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. ( 18 sts)
Cut yarn leaving a long tail that will be used to close the hole on top of the hat.
Turn the hat inside out, thread needle with the long yarn tail and weave yarn through ends of last round; pull the yarn tight to close the hole. Secure by weaving the yarn through for a few more times, then fasten off!
TEEN - ADULT SMALL SIZE
BODY OF HAT:
Work in the round around the edge:
Round 1: ch1, work around the edge 78 yo-slsts evenly placed ( working one st into each rib st and one st into each “valley” st on the edge); join into round with slst to top of first yo-slst.
Place 6 stitch markers or yarn pieces into each 13. St around. ( See the picture tutorial below).
Placing stitch markers will help when working the cable pattern to not work into marked stitches 2 times! You will understand what I mean while you work!
Round 2: ch2, *work 1 bpdc around each of next 5 sts, sk next 2 sts, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 sts, going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of 2 skipped sts, sk next 2 sts, work 1 dc into each of next 2 sts (NOTE: the 2nd dc st will be worked into the marked st! When working the next repeat do not work the next bpdc into the marked st!); going in front of the 2 dc sts just made, work 1 fptr around each of 2 skipped sts* , repeat from *to * around 6 times, slst to top of first bpdc.
(78 sts. You should have 6 cables x 8 sts + 6 spaces between cables x 5 sts)
You can now remove the st markers.
Round 3: ch2, *work 1bpdc around each of next 5 bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 8 sts of next cable this way:1 fpdc around each of next 2 fptr, 1 fpdc around each of next 4 dc behind the fptr sts, 1 fpdc around each of next 2 fptr *, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. (78 sts)
Round 4: ch2, *work 1bpdc around each of next 5 bpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 fpdc; going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 fptr around each of the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. (78 sts)
Rounds 5 - 14: Repeat rounds 3-4, ending with a round 4 repeat. (78 sts)
Your piece should have started the 7.th cable in height and the piece should measure 15.5 cm in height including the ribbing.
SHAPING THE TOP:
Round 1: (Note: This round you’ll decrease only the bpdc sts between cables from 5 bpdc to 4 bpdc sts ; the cables will be worked the same as round 3.)
ch2, * 1bpdc around each of next 2 bpdc, work 1dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, 1bpdc around next bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 8 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. (72 sts)
Round 2: (Note: this round you’ll decrease only the bpdc sts between cables from 4 bpdc to 3 bpdc sts; the cables will be worked the same as round 4.)
ch 2, *1bpdc around next bpdc, work 1dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, 1bpdc around next bpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 fptr around each of next 2 fpdc; going behind the 2 fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 fptr around each of the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. (66 sts)
Round 3: (This round you’ll decrease only the bpdc sts between cables from 3 bpdc to 2 bpdc sts; the cables will be worked the same as round 3.)
ch 2, *work 1bpdc around next bpdc, 1 dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 8 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first dec bpdc. (60 sts)
Cable decreases:
Round 4: (Note: This round you’ll decrease each cable from 8 sts to 6 sts!)
ch2, *1 bpdc around each next 2bpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dec-fptr around next 2 fpdc; going behind the dec-fptr just made, work 1 dc into each of the 2 skipped fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into each of next 2 fpdc; going in front of the 2 dc just made, work 1 dec-fptr around the 2 skipped fpdc, repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. (48 sts)
Round 5: ch2, *work 1 dec-bpdc around next 2 bpdc, work 1 fpdc around each of 6 sts of next cable*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first dec-bpdc. ( 42 sts)
Round 6: (Note: This round you’ll decrease each cable from 6 sts to 4 sts!
ch 2, *1 bpdc around next bpdc, sk 1 fpdc, work 1 dec-fptr around next 2 fpdc; going behind the dec-fptr just made, work 1 dc into the skipped 1 fpdc, sk next 2 fpdc, work 1 dc into next 1 fpdc; going in front of 1 dc just made, work 1 dec-fptr around the 2 skipped fpdc; repeat from * around, sl st to top of first bpdc of round. ( 30 sts)
Round 7: ch 2, *1 bpdc around next bpdc, work 1dec- fpdc around each of next 2 fpdc*, repeat from *to * around, slst to top of first bpdc. ( 18 sts)
Cut yarn leaving a long tail that will be used to close the hole on top of the hat.
Turn the hat inside out, thread needle with the long yarn tail and weave yarn through ends of last round; pull the yarn tight to close the hole. Secure by weaving the yarn through for a few more times, then fasten off!
ADDING A POMPOM:
All sizes: Sew a faux fur pompom or a yarn pompom made with a pom pom maker on top of your hat.
I hope you enjoy this pattern!
You might like the Cable Headband Easy Fit worked with the same cable pattern, but in rows!
For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!
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CHIC CABLE BEANIE
Written Instructions and Pictures COPYRIGHT © 2018 Kinga Erdem.
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated. Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends. You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you.
Kinga
Thank you for sharing your pattern with us.
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome!
DeleteThank you so much for this pattern!! It was really easy to understand and looks really cool!
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome! Please share a picture of your hat! I would love to see it!
DeleteIs there a video tutorial for this pattern?
ReplyDeleteHi Mali, there is no video tutorial for this pattern.
Deletei counted the ribs above for adult only it has 38ribs. thank you for this beautiful pattern
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome! Please enjoy! :)
DeleteFor the body of hat: After placing the stitch markers, the directions state "St around." Does this mean another row of yo-slsts before round 2?
ReplyDeletePlease read the instructions carefully. After you work round 1, you place 6 stitch markers! "Place 6 stitch markers or yarn pieces into each 11. st around." You place stitch markers, you don't work another row of yo-slsts before round 2.
DeleteAh, I see. The period after "11" was throwing me off! Thank you!
DeleteLovely hat! I’m a beginner at crochet, but I love a challenge. On a scale of 1-5, how difficult would you rate this pattern with 1 being the easiest? Also, wool makes me itch. Would any 4 weight yarn work? If so, would I use the size hook that is on the yarn directions or stick to the size hook you are using? If you have any recommendations, they would be greatly appreciated.
ReplyDeleteP.S. If the pattern is very hard, I’ll practice for a while. I DO want to make this. I’ve saved it on my Pinterest. ��
Hi Bec, you could try other 4 weight yarn with a 5 mm crochet hook and see if you meet the gauge. The pattern is an intermediate one, I don't know, maybe a 3 or 4 on a difficulty scale.
DeleteHi there, is it easy enough to go up another size for a larger adults head? Also, I'm so used to doing a brim in single crochet ribs, but having issues with it being stretched too much after wear. This is the first pattern I've seen with a slip stitch rib which I'm excited to try. Is there much stretch in this form? Can't wait to try this beanie!
ReplyDeleteI really love this rib. It is stretchy indeed, (excepting cotton yarn). For a larger size, you could either use a larger hook as in the pattern indicated, or add more stitches in between the cables. You would have to make the math by yourself. I wish you success! I would love to hear what it goes.
DeleteBeautiful pattern. I made it but I'm not entirely happy with the pattern created along the chain 2 of each row. I think I did it wrong as I couldn't as entirely understand how to do it. Any chance you could explain it or take another picture/ small video? Thanks so much for sharing this beautiful pattern.
ReplyDeleteHi Stefania, it should be almost invisible the way I'm doing it. I'm sorry, but I can't make a video at the moment.
DeleteNagyon szeretném elkésziteni, de kellene magyar leírás, nem értem a rövidítéseket.
ReplyDeleteThank you for the pattern! The fpdc and bpdc in the 2nd round of the body are done in the small or the long posts of the stitches underneath?
ReplyDeleteHi, They are worked around the post of the yo-slsts from previous round.
DeleteHi again! I meant round 3 and not 2 in my previous question. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI find for the adult hat 39 ribs are to much. I used a smaller hook and still.to many rows. I come up to only 30 . So i will.put 6 markers every 5 stitches.
ReplyDelete