Arctic Baby Cardigan - Free Crochet Pattern

This cute little crochet baby cardigan featuring a knit look ribbing stitch is a free crochet pattern and you can find it here on My Hobby is Crochet blog.

*Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you decide to purchase through these links. Thank you! Crochet Hook provided by Furls Crochet.

The Arctic Baby Cardigan is my gift contribution to the surprise baby shower organized by the Red Heart Joy Creators bloggers for Nadia Fuad of Yarnutopia, who is having her first child in June!

Each of the participating Joy Creators designed and crocheted a baby item for Nadia's baby boy and sent the gifts to her mom’s home where the baby shower took place. If you would like to read more about this special baby shower surprise and watch Nadia opening the gifts, you can can check out her blog post.

Arctic Baby Cardigan

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SIZE: 0-3 months

GAUGE: 12 sts and 11 rows in stitch pattern = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm)

SUPPLIES:

• yarn:
  • Red Heart Soft Baby Steps in following colors:
    ->2 skeins color Elephant (Color A)
    ->1 skein color White (Color C)
  
  
  • 1 skein of Red Heart Soft -color Turquoise (Color B)
• - crochet hook size 5.5 mm, shown here Furls Wooden Hook
• - 5 small buttons
• - yarn needle
• - sewing needle
• - scissors

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
- ch: chain
- back bump behind the starting chain: (see my TUTORIAL) Working into the back bump of the foundation chain will give the edge a nice, finished look.
- st: stitch
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- blo: back loop only
- sk: skip
-yo: yarn over
-WS: wrong side
-RS: right side

Special stitches:
1) yo-slst: yarn over slip stitch:

1. yo and insert the hook into next st,
2. yo and pull through st,
3. You have now 3 loops on the hook. Pull the first loop on hook through the next 2 loops on hook to complete the stitch.
See my Step by Step Picture Tutorial for the Yarn Over Slip Stitch here!

2) yo-slst2tog: yarn over slip stitch two together = decrease 1yo-slst:

1. yo and insert the hook into next st,
2. do not yarn over again, but insert the hook through the back loop only of next st
3. yo and pull through both sts.
4. You have now 3 loops on the hook.
   Pull the first loop on hook through the next 3 loops on hook to complete the decrease. .

NOTES:

The cardigan is worked top down in rows, turning the piece after each row.

Color change: Don't cut yarn when making color changes, carry each yarn not in use from row to row. Don't worry about the yarn strand at the edge, they will be covered by the edging.

You can use the suggested color combinations or you can use as many colors you like, even just one solid color - that will make the cardigan much easier to work!

The ch 3 at beg of rows will count as the first st of the row. Do not work into first st.

The last dc st in even rows will be worked inserting the hook into both top loops for a stabil edge.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Yoke:

Ch 44.

Row 1 (WS) : With A working into the back bump of the stitches, 1 yo-slst into 2nd ch from hook and 1 yo-slst in each of next 4 st, 3 yo-slst in next ch, 1 yo-slst in each of next 9 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 11 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 9 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst into each of next 5 sts; turn. ( 51 sts)

Row 2 (RS): ch 3, sk first st, working into back loops only: 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 13 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 11 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts,turn. (59 sts)

(work the last dc of the rows inserting the hook into both top loops)

Row 3 (WS): ch 1, 1 yo-slst in first st and 1 yo-slst in each of next 6 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 13 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 15 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 13 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 6 sts, 1 yo-slst into top of ch3; turn. (67 sts)

Row 4 (RS): ch3, sk first st, working into back loops only: 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 15 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 17 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 15 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 8 sts, turn. (75 sts)

Row 5 (WS): ch 1, 1 yo-slst in first st and 1 yo-slst in each of next 8 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 17 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 19 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 17 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 8 sts, 1 yo-slst into top of ch3; turn. ( 83 sts)

Row 6 (RS): ch 3, sk first st; working into back loops only: 1 dc in each of next 9 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 19 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 21 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 19 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 10 sts, turn. (75 sts)

Row 7 (WS): ch1, 1 yo-slst in first st and 1 yo-slst in each of next 10 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 21 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 23 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 21 sts, 3 yo-slst in next st, 1 yo-slst in each of next 10 sts, 1 yo-slst into top of ch3; turn. (99 sts)

Separating for sleeves:

Row 8 (RS): ch3, sk first st, working into back loops only: 1 dc in each of next 12 sts, ch 5 (for underarm), sk next 23 sts, 1 dc in each of next 27 sts, ch 5 (underarm), sk next 23 sts, 1 dc in each of next 13 sts, turn.

You'll have 13 sts left front side, 5 ch left underarm, 27 sts back, 5 ch right underarm, 13 sts right front side = 63 sts total

Body part:

Row 9 (WS): ch 1, 1 yo-slst in first st and 1 yo-slst in each of next 12 sts, working into back bumps of chains, 1 yo-slst in each of 5 ch underarm, 1 yo-slst in each of next 27 sts, working into back bumps of chains, 1 yo-slst in each of 5 ch underarm, 1 yo-slst in each of next 12 dc, ending with 1 yo-slt into top of ch3. (63 sts)

Row 10 (increase row on RS): ch 3, sk first st; working into back loops only: 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts*, repeat from *to* till end of row; turn (71 sts)

Row 11 (WS): ch1, 1 yo-slst in each st across, ending with 1 yo-slst into top of ch3. (71 sts)

Row 12 (RS): ch 3, sk first st, working into back loops only: 1 dc in each st across, at last st, before last yo, change to B and finish the st with B. Continue next row with B. (71 sts)

Rows 13-24: Repeat as rows 11-12 changing colors every row.
Color sequence repeat: turquoise, white, grey,

Note: Do not cut yarns at the end of the rows, but carry the colors up on the edge from row to row.

Row 25: Continue last row with grey on WS same as row 11.
Cut yarn. Fasten off.

Sleeves:

The sleeves are worked on the wrong side of cardigan, working in the round and turning after joining with slst.

Round 1: With wrong side facing you, join Color A at underarm (into the 3rd. ch from the 5 ch at underarm). See the picture below!

ch 1, 1 yo-slst in same st and 1 yo- slst evenly around, join with slst to top of first st. Turn! (34 sts)

Round 2: ch 3, working into back loops only: 1 dc in each st around, join with slst to top of ch3. Turn! (34 sts)

Round 3: ch1, 1 yo-slst in each st around, join with slst to top of first yo-slst. Turn! (34 sts)

Rounds 4- 6: Repeat as rounds 2-3.

Round 7 (Decrease and color change to B!): pull B through loop on hook, tug the yarns tight, ch1 with B, work 1 yo-slst in first st, yo-slst2tog, 1 yo-slst in each stitch to last 2 sts, yo-slst2tog, join with slst to top of first st. Turn! (32 sts)

Round 8: (Color change to C): Pull C through loop on hook, tug the yarns tight, ch3, working into back loops only: 1 dc in each st around, join with slst to top of ch3. Turn! (32 sts)

Round 9: (Decrease and color change to A): repeat as round 7 (30 sts)

Round 10: (Color change to B): repeat as round 8 (30 sts)

Round 11: (Decrease and color change to C): repeat as round 7 (28 sts)

Round 12: (Color change to A): repeat as round 8 (28 sts)

Round 13: (Decrease and color change to B): repeat as round 7 (26 sts)

Round 14: (Color change to C): repeat as round 8 (26 sts)

Round 15: (Decrease and color change to A): repeat as round 7 (24 sts)

Round 16: (Color change to B): repeat as round 8 (24 sts)

Round 17: Do not decrease anymore! (Color change to C): ch 1, 1 yo-slst in each st around, join with slst to top of first st. Turn (24 sts)

Round 18: (Color change to A) ch1, 1 yo-slst-blo in each st around, join with slst to top of first st. Turn( 24 sts)

Continue with A:
Round 19: ch1, working into 3rd loop at front of sts, yo-slst in each st around, join with slst to top of first st. Cut yarn. Fasten off.

Work the same for next sleeve!

Buttonhole Band (Left Side):

Row 1 (RS): Holding cardigan with the RS facing you, join A to left neckline corner, ch1, 1 sc in same st and 1 sc evenly across the edge to hemline border, placing 2 sc for each dc row and 1 sc for each yo-slst row. Turn. ( 37 sts)

Row 2 (WS): ch1, 1 sc in same st and 1 sc in each st across; turn. (37 sts)

Row 3 (RS): ch1, 1 sc in same st and 1 sc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 (buttonhole made), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts, ch 2, sk2* repeat from *to * 4 times more, 1 sc in each of the 9 remaining sts. Turn.
You have made 5 button holes.

Row 4 (WS): ch1, 1 sc in each sc st, 2 sc in each ch 2 space; turn. ( 37 sts)

Row 5 (RS): ch1, 1 sc in each st across ( 37 sts).
Cut yarn. Fasten off.

Button band (Right side):

Row 1 (RS): Holding cardigan with the RS facing you, join A to lower right front corner, ch1, 1 sc in same st and 1 sc evenly across the edge to neckline, placing 2 sc for each dc row and 1 sc for each yo-slst row. Turn. ( 37 sts)

Rows 2-5: ch1, 1 sc in same st and 1 sc in each st across; turn. (37 sts)
Cut yarn. Fasten off.

With sewing needle and sewing thread, sew 5 buttons on the left front side, each button corresponding to the buttonhole on the right front side.

Without the collar the cardigan should look like pictured below. You can leave as it is or you can continue with the collar.

Collar:

For the collar you will work the first row into the st of foundation ch of the yoke. Do not work into the sts of the front bands!

Row 1: Holding the cardigan with the right side facing you and starting at right front neckline, join Color B in 1st st of sweater, sc in each st across the neckline. Turn. ( 43 sts)

Rows 2-10: ch 1, 1 sc in same st and 1 sc in each st across. Turn (43 sts)
Cut yarn. Fasten off.

Row 11: (Border around the collar with B): With right side of collar facing you, join Color B at edge of collar where it attaches to the sweater, work 1 sc in each st up on collar edge till corner, work 3 sc into corner st, work 1 sc in each st till next corner, 3 sc into corner st, 1 sc in each st down on collar edge. Fasten off.

Row 12 Border around the collar and across the front bands: Join Color A in last st worked of left front band at neckline, sc across front band and around the collar (placing 3 sc into corner sts) and sc across left front band. Fasten off.

(Optional) Border at the bottom of cardigan:

At bottom of cardigan join A into first st on the left front band, ch 1, sc across the left front band, 1 yo-slst-blo in each st across the cardigan, 1 sc in each st across the right front band. Cut yarn. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Polar Bear Applique:

Crochet the applique using my Polar Bear Applique Free Crochet Pattern and sew it onto the cardigan as pictured.

I hope you enjoy this crochet baby cardigan pattern! For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!

Check also all the Free Crochet Baby Patterns designed by the Red Heart Joy Creators for the Surprise Baby Shower featured on Marly Bird's Blog

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Arctic Baby Cardigan - Copyright © 2019 Kinga Erdem
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated.
Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends.
You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you.
Kinga