This beautiful baby bunting bag with buttons down the sides is crocheted lengthwise in rows as one rectangular piece then folded like an envelope.
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For this baby bunting I have used the same stitch pattern that I have created for my very popular "Go with The Flow" Super Scarf!
I have even used the same color, because I find it so pretty! For the baby bunting I have used a thinner yarn and a smaller hook size as for the scarf.
UPDATE MARCH 2024: I have made a Video Tutorial to show you how to crochet the stitch pattern used for the Go with the Flow Baby Bunting (and Scarf)! You can watch the video at the end of the written pattern below!
You can use this crochet baby bunting bag in a baby pram for taking the baby on walks. Please do not let the baby sleep in it unanttended! I have created this baby bunting for warmer weather. For more warmth you can insert a fleece or jersey fabric lining, before starting the edging around the entire piece.
MEASUREMENTS
Approx 15" [38 cm] wide x 29.13" [74 cm] deep including hood; see the scheme belowHere's a picture of my adorable little nephew (age 2 month here) in the baby bunting bag! So cute, isn't he?
Many thanks to my sister and to my brother in law for allowing me to feature this picture! :)
GAUGE
14 sc sts or 7 crossed dc sts = 10 cm10 rows in pattern repeat (alternating 2 rows of sc with 2 rows of crossed sts) = 10 cm
SUPPLIES
- 4 skeins of Red Heart Soft yarn (400 g total); I have used the colorway Ice Blue, found on LoveCrafts.
- 5.5 mm crochet hook (I have used Furls Wooden Hook, Cocobolo)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- 24 Stitch Markers (or yarn pieces)
- 12 (wooden) buttons 1" [2.5 cm] diameter.
STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)
- ch: chain
- ch2sp: chain two space
- st: stitch
- Sk: skip
- dc: double crochet
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
Special stitches:
- csdc: chainless starting double crochet
Note: To avoid gaps on the edge, I have used the csdc instead of ch3 at the beginning of rows.
If you are not familiar with the csdc, you can watch this Video Tutorial by Moogly to learn how to. (Or you can use the traditional ch3 if you prefer that way) - fcr dc: Front Crossed Double Crochet: sk 1 st, work 1 dc into the next st, 1 dc back into skipped st going in front of the last dc just made so as not to catch it, inserting the hook into the skipped stitch from back to front of the work. Check out my Video Tutorial here!
- bcr dc: Back Crossed Double Crochet: sk 1 st, work 1 dc into the next st, 1 dc back into skipped st going behind the last dc just made, so as not to catch it, inserting the hook from front to back of the work. So, 1 bcr hdc will be made of 2 sts.
- twsc: Twisted Single Crochet Click here for Tutorial! (If you can't master the twisted sc, you can replace it with the crab stitch)
Notes:
1. The ch1 at the beginning of sc rows will not count as a st.
2. The chainless double crochet/ alternative the ch3 will count as the first st of the rows with crossed double crochet stitches.
WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Chain 165.Row 1 (RS): work 1sc in 2nd ch from hook and 1sc in each chain across, turn. (164 sts)
Row 2 (WS) - Row 3 (RS): ch1, 1 sc in each st across, turn. (164 sts)
Row 4 (WS): csdc, work bcr dc across to last st, 1dc in last st, turn. ( 81 X-sts)
Row 5 (RS): csdc, work fcr dc across to last st, 1dc in last st, turn.( 81 X-sts)
Row 6 (WS) - Row 7 (RS): ch1, sc in each st across, turn. (164 sts)
Rows 8 - 35: repeat from rows 4 - 7. Basically you will alternate 1 row of back cross sts + 1 row of front cross sts with 2 rows of single crochet sts, ending with 2 rows of sc sts. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
Row 36: ch1, 1 sc in each st across, turn. (164 sts)
Cut yarn leaving a long tail that will be used to sew the hood. Fasten off.
The piece is now 130 cm (approx. 51.18”) long and 33 cm wide (approx. 13”).
CROCHET CHART
Sewing up the hood
Holding the piese with RS facing, fold one short end in half, match the two ends with the right side facing each other then sew the hood center seam. Cut yarn. Fasten off.After shaping the hood, you will crochet the edging around the entire piece working in spiral rounds without joining with a slip stitch at the end of each round.
Edging worked around the entire piece
Round 1:
Holding the piece with the RS facing and the hood at your left hand, join yarn with ssc into first st on the upper long edge, and work 1 sc along the side, then around the hood, along the other side until last st; work 2 sc in last st (corner); continue to work sc along the short edge 2 st in first corner st, 1 sc in each sc row and 1 sts in each dc row, 2 sc in next corner st.
Do not cut yarn, you will continue to work in the round without joining with slst after placing the stitch markers.
With the piece folded in shape and with RS facing, place st markers evenly on both front sides of the sleeping bag:
1st marker into first st after the corner st, sk next 2 st, place another st marker into next st, (sk next 8 sts, place a st marker into next st, sk next 2 st, place another st marker into next st) X 5 times.
See the picture below!
Notes:
1. The buttonholes will be formed by the chain 2 spaces!
2. Between buttonholes you will have 10 sc sts!
Round 2 (Forming 6 Buttonholes on both front sides):
Work 1 sc into 1st marked st, (ch2, sk next 2 sts (buttonhole), 1 sc in next marked st and 1 sc in each of next 9 sts) x 5 times, continue to work sc along the side, then along the hood, the on the other side until you reach the 1st marker on the other front side,
work 1 sc into 1st marked st, (ch2, sk next 2 sts (buttonhole), 1 sc in next marked st and 1 sc in each of next 9 sts) x 5 times, ch2, sk 2, 1 sc in last st on the side;
3 sc in corner st,1 sc in each st along the short side, 3 sc in corner st; continue in spiral round without joining.
Round 3: work 1 sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next ch2 sp, (1 sc in each of next 10 sc between the button holes and 2 sc in next ch2 sp) x 5 times, 1 sc in each next st along the side and along the hood, then along the other long side, until you reach the first ch 2 sp on the other long side, work 2 sc in next ch2 sp, (1 sc in each of next 10 sc and 2 sc in next ch2 sp) x 5 times, 1sc in each left st till corner, 3 sc into corner st, 1 sc in each sc on along the shirt side, 3 sc in next corner st.
Do not join with slst! Continue in spiral rounds!
Round 4 : *ch1, sk 1 sc, work twsc in next sc*, repeat from *to* along the long side, then around the hood, along the other long side, ch1, sk last sc on the side, work 3 sc into corner st; repeat along the shirt side from *to*, ch 1, sk last st on shirt side, then and fasten off invisibly, joining into first corner st.
Sewing the Buttons on the folded back piece
Before sewing up the buttons, evenly place 6 stitch markers on both sides of the back piece, following along the same row where the buttonholes where made.
The first st marker (at the bottom of the bunting) will be inserted into the 5th st from the last buttonhole; then for each of the next 5 stitch markers skip 11 sts and insert the next st marker into the 12th next st.
See the picture below!
Sew the buttons securely corresponding to the stitch markers.
Watch the VIDEO TUTORIAL below to learn how to crochet the stitch pattern used for the Go with the Flow Baby Bunting Bag:
I hope you enjoy this pattern! For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!
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Go with the Flow Baby Bunting
Written Instructions, Crochet Chart and Pictures - Copyright © 2021 Kinga Erdem
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated.
Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends.
You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you.
Kinga
Wow! Thank you or an awesome crocheted pattern for this adorable bunting!
ReplyDeleteAdorable. Currently working on this but am struggling with the buttonhole row. It says to mark a 2 space buttonhole every 8 stitches, but then it says I should have 10 stitches between button holes, which would mean I'm closing up the buttonhole space... hopefully I'm not messing it up but maybe you could clarify?
ReplyDeleteHa just figured it out 🙄 please disregard my last comment while I take a break and get some fresh air! Lol
ReplyDeleteCurious if you’ve ever lined this with fabric? I’m thinking lining it with flannel while it’s a long flat piece would turn out super cute! Thanks for a
ReplyDeleteGreat pattern.
Hi Jaime. Lining it with fleece would be great for colder weather. This baby bunting bag was made especially for my little nephew and my sister wanted a light, breathable piece for warmer weather.
DeleteI am keen to give this a try - where did you get the stitch markers from? Could you please provide a link? I suppose I could use little safety pins too?
ReplyDeleteHi, I got the stitch markers from Hobbii. Here is my affiliate link, if you would like to use it: https://www.tkqlhce.com/click-8416942-14470296?url=https%3A%2F%2Fhobbii.com%2Fstitch-markers-w-lock-25-pcs%3Fstore_id%3D10&cjsku=1004502
DeleteSuper easy pattern to follow. I love it!! Mine turned out just perfect! Thank you so much. Wish I could post a picture! I can’t wait to give it as a baby shower gift this weekend
ReplyDeleteWonderful patterns !
ReplyDeleteAre there any differences in doing this left handed? I'm not sure I'm getting the crossed stitches alternating correctly...
ReplyDelete