Crossed Rib Hat | Free Crochet Pattern and Video Tutorial

The Crossed Rib Hat is a pretty knit-look crochet ribbed hat featuring an interesting 3d ribbing, a folded brim and a shaped top with no bunching.

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Crossed Over Rib Hat

The hat is first worked sideways in rows as a flat piece using an easy 2 rows repeat pattern! After joining the short sides together for the back seam, finish crown shaping.

To avoid the bulk on top of the hat, the crown of the hat will be shaped with a few rounds of waistcoat stitch.
“Why waistcoat stitch and not regular single crochet stitch?", you might ask.. Well, because the waistcoat stitch will mimic the look of the knit stitch. But if you can't master the waistcoat stitch, you could replace it with the single crochet (but it will change the look of the hat top a bit).

Optional you can add a pretty pom-pom to top to finish.

A Video Tutorial showing how to crochet the Crossed Rib Hat can be found at the end of the pattern!

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SIZE

The hat pattern comes in 2 sizes: child and teen/ adult women.

• Hat total height with unfolded brim:
  child: 10.2 inches (26 cm)
  teen/ adult women: 11 inches (28 cm)
• Hat circumference without stretching:
  child: 19 inches (48.3 cm)
  women: 20 inches (50.8 cm); the hat is stretchy!

You can customize the size of your hat, if you like!
For a longer/shorter hat, start with more/less foundation chains in a multiple of 2 stitches + 1 for the turning chain.
For a wider/ narrower hat add more/less rows in the pattern repeat of 2 rows.

GAUGE

16 hdc back loops only and 9 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4")

SUPPLIES:

• Yarn: medium weight/aran yarn
  I have used 2 balls of Infinity Hearts Lily from Rito Hobby (ships within Europe from Denmark);
  skein weight: 50 g/1.76 oz; 100 meters/109.3 yds) Colorway: Purple (7) for the child size and Black (14) for the women size.
  This is a blown yarn made of 70% Cotton & 30% Superwash Merino Wool
  
  You can substitute it with a medium weight yarn of your choice that meets the gauge.
  
  Excelent yarn subtitutes for this yarn would be:
  1. CASCADE YARNS Cantata, on Paradies Fibers site (not affiliate link). (99% match)
     This yarn comes in 200m balls. For each ball of the original yarn you will need 0.5 balls of this.
  2. Juniper Moon Farm Cotton + Merino from Love Crafts UK.
     You can find it also on Amazon here! This yarn comes in 200m balls. For each ball of the original yarn you will need 0.5 balls of this.
• 4.5 mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• optional stitch marker

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

- ch: chain
- st: stitch
- sc: single crochet
- sc blo: single crochet worked in back loops only
- hdc: half double crochet
- hdc blo: half double crochet worked in back loops only
- blo: back loop only
- RS: right side of work
- WS: wrong side of work

Special Stitches:

Crossed Half Double Crochet (CrHDC): sk 1 st, work 1 hdc into the next st, 1 hdc back into skipped st going in front of the last hdc just made, inserting the hook from front to back of the work.

Crossed Half Double Crochet worked into back loops only
(CrHDC blo): as written above, but inserting the hook into the back loops of the stitches.

Waistcoat stitch (Wsc); aka the center single crochet, aka the crochet knit stitch is a modified single crochet worked inserting the hook not under both top loops as usual, but right into the center of the V-shape, in between the posts of the sc.

Decrease waistcoat sts two togheter (dec Wsc2tog): insert hook into center of next waistcoat st and pull up a loop, insert hook into center of next waistcoat st and pull up a loop; you have 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook to complete a decrease of 2 waistcoats stitches into 1 waistcoat stitch!

NOTES

1. the ch1 at beginning of the rows will not count as a st
2. Do not work the slip stitches at the beginning/ end of the rows tight; otherwise it will be difficult the next row to insert the hook into them; or you might even unsee them! Work the slsts taller!
3. Working the last hdc at the end of rows into both top loops will give the edge more stability.
4. If you like, you can use a stitch marker to mark the start of the brim stitches.

HAT INSTRUCTIONS

Use hook size 4.5mm and leave a long yarn tail (about 30- 40 inches) that will be later used to sew the short ends together.

Child Size:

Ch 41.

Row 1 (WS): work 1 slst into 2nd. ch from hook and 1 slst in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 3 ch, 1 hdc in next st, 8 FcrHDC over the next 16 chains, 1 hdc in each of next 18 ch; ch1, turn (40 sts total)

Row 2 (RS): 18 hdc blo, 8 CrHDC blo (1 CrHDC blo for each of the 8 CrHDC groups from previous row), 1 hdc blo, 3 sc blo, 2 slst blo; ch1, turn (40 sts total)

Row 3 (WS): 2 slst blo, 3 sc blo, 1 hdc blo, 8 CrHDC blo, 17 hdc blo; 1 hdc inserting the hook under both top loops of last hdc from prev row; ch1, turn. (40 sts total)

Row 4 (RS): 18 hdc blo, 8 CrHDC blo, 1 hdc blo, 3 sc blo, 2 slst blo; ch1, turn (40 sts total)

Now you can measure your piece and make a gauge test. My piece is 10.5 inches long right now! After more rows it will shrink about 1 inch due to the shorter stitches at the top!

Rows 5- 38: repeat the last two rows, alternating Row 3 and Row 4 ; ending with a row 4 repeat (worked from bottom to top!).

Do not cut yarn!! Place a stitch marker into the last stitch at the end of the last row! You will continue with the crown shaping after joining into tube!

After finishing the last row, the piese should look like this:

Continue with the instructions for joining into tube, right below the women size!

Teen/ Adult Women Size:

Ch 46.

Row 1 (WS): work 1 slst into 2nd. ch from hook and 1 slst in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 3 ch, 1 hdc in next st, 9 CrHDC over the next 18 chains, 1 hdc in each of next 21 ch; ch1, turn (45 sts total)

Row 2 (RS): 21 hdc blo, 9 CrHDC blo (1 CrHDC blo for each of the 9 CrHDC groups from previous row), 1 hdc blo, 3 sc blo, 2 slst blo; ch1, turn (45 sts total)

Row 3 (WS): 2 slst blo, 3 sc blo, 1 hdc blo, 9 CrHDC blo, 20 hdc blo; 1 hdc inserting the hook under both top loops of last st; ch1, turn. (45 sts total)

Row 4 (RS): 21 hdc blo, 9 CrHDC blo, 1 hdc blo, 3 sc blo, 2 slst blo; ch1, turn (45 sts total)

Now you can measure your piece and make a gauge test. My piece is 11.5 inches long right now! After more rows it will shrink about 1 inch due to the shorter stitches at the top!

Rows 5 - 42: repeat the last two rows, alternating Row 3 and Row 4 ; ending with a row 4 repeat (worked from bottom to top!).

Do not cut yarn!! Place a stitch marker into the last stitch at the end of the last row! You will continue with the crown shaping after joining into tube!

After finishing the last row, the piese should look like this:

Joining the sides into a tube (both sizes):

Fold over the short ends of the piece so that the wrong sides are facing each other.
Although the pattern looks good on both sides, I take the wrong side the side where the v-looking stitches are pointing up; and the right side where the v-looking stitches are pointing down! And that's because when you shape the crown in the next step on RS, working with the waistcoat stitch, it will keep the same look of the v-looking stitches pointing down.
Sew the back seam on the right side. Thread a yarn needle with the long yarn tail you left at the beginning of work; sew the short edges together inserting the needle through the front loop of the stitches on last row edge and the unused loops of the foundation chain sts on the other edge, back and forth, until you reach the top edge. Cut yarn and fasten it off.

Crown/Top Shaping (both sizes)

Remove the stitch marker and continue to crochet on RS around the top edge of the hat!

Round 1: ch1, work into the ridge sts/ v-looking stitches around the top edge, inserting the hook right into the center of the v's, 1 sc in each of the 19 (21) ridges around the edge; join with slst to 1.st sc.

Note: work the sc a bit taller, to make it easier to work the next round with the waistcoast sts!

Round 2: ch1, work 1 wsc (a bit taller) in each sc around; join with slst to top of 1.st wsc st. Total: 19 (21 sts)

Round 3: ch1, decrease every next 2 Wsc sts around; at the end of the row you will have an extra st, work 1 wsc in last wsc; join with slst to top of 1.st st. Total: 9 sts (11 sts)
Cut yarn. Fasten off.

Closing the small hole on top of the hat (both sizes)

Turn the hat inside out. Thread a yarn needle with the second yarn tail, weave yarn in the back loops of the sts of the last round.
Cinch together to close space and fasten off securely, making several knots. Weave in all ends.

If desired, add a pom pom on top of the hat.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

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Watch my VIDEO TUTORIAL below to learn how to crochet the Crossed Rib Hat!

If you can't see the video right above, you can Watch this Video on YouTube!

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You might like these FREE HAT PATTERNS as well:

1. Deep See Hat
2. Bex Hat
3. Wheat Hat

For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!

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Crossed Rib Hat

Written Instructions, Video and Pictures, Copyright © Oct 2024 Kinga Erdem
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated.
Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends.
You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you.
Kinga